Rusty Rudder

It's no secret that the Rusty Rudder in Dewey Beach is more popular for its outside bar and deck, live entertainment and magnificent view of the Rehoboth Bay than it is for the food. The dark, cramped and walled-off restaurant interior seemed to go just fine with the hit-or-miss grub-food fest that was the buffet. But that has changed. It's hard to fight old preconceptions, but when Highway One LP's John Snow and Executive Chef Pete McMahon converted Venus on the Half Shell into Ivy in early 2012, they also tackled a massive revamp of the venerable old Rudder. Floors were replaced and lightened in color, walls removed, interior windows created, paint applied, and pretty much the entire kitchen was upgraded and streamlined. The result was a clean, austere look, with panoramic views to the south and to the west across the water from every seat in the house. Stainless steel tabletops and cleverly designed chairs make the room even more modern, and truth be told, if you didn't know you were at the newly refurbished Rusty Rudder, somebody would have to tell you.

Pretty much everything is made in-house. The Fried Chicken is pressure-fried, similar to KFC. And the result is not unlike KFC — when it's done right. Pressure frying makes for a tender, moist piece of chicken. The tradeoff is that it's not particularly crispy, but it's not meant to be. Another surprise is the BBQ ribs, made entirely on the premises. There are so many frozen products out there that are OK, but Chef McMahon actually takes the time to prepare the ribs from scratch. The quality test is if you can pull the bone out of the meat, and every portion passed that test. The sauce is on the sweet side with a rich consistency.

Yes, I know, the Rusty Rudder is all about seafood. And there's no lack of that. Steamed Littlenecks are just begging you to fill your plate. The clams make an appearance, along with mussels, in the Seafood Cioppino simmered in a tomato-wine sauce. It's surprisingly good. The steamed shrimp is also served hot, accompanied by Fried Butterflied Shrimp. Simple economies of scale required that this be a frozen product (they serve literally thousands a week), but it's high-quality and one of the best of its type I've had locally. A spicy horseradish cocktail sauce accompanies. Note that the menu changes with the seasons at the Rusty Rudder. So everything mentioned here might not be available when you go!

At the time of this writing, fish entrees include Baked Stuffed Flounder Imperial (prepared in little rollups), Beer-Battered Cod Filets, Seafood Newburg, Tilapia w/Lobster Sauce and Grilled Rockfish. Both were quite good and obviously prepared in-house.

Snow Crabs, Broiled Seafood Cakes, Seafood Jambalaya and Crab & Artichoke Dip are also in generous supply. Of course you can never go wrong with Snow Crabs. The Seafood Cakes are OK, but a bit dry and I'd just as soon get the Flounder Imperial or the Cioppino. Or the Ribs. Any maybe the steamed shrimp. Oh, and the chicken.

The undisputed star of the sides department is a dead heat between the house made Macaroni & Cheese and the Redskin Mashed Potatoes (top them with an OK herbed brown gravy). On all of our visits, both dishes elicited oohs and ahhs from accompanying diners, though I suspect that could have also been the second round of drinks.

Additional sides include a panful of Fresh Vegetable of the Day (it's OK, but you'd pass up a second helping of mac ‘n' cheese for that?), Long-Grain Rice Pilaf and Cheddar Herbed Biscuits.

No, we're not finished yet.

Entrees include a Flat Iron Steak, blackened with grilled mushrooms and onions, Chicken Chesapeake and Thai-Crusted Scallops.

Before I embark on a series of review visits, I like to go to the Whiner's 15 Minutes-of-Fame sites, aka, TwitAdvisor, Help!, Urban Swoon and the like. Nobody monitors the postings, so you never know what you'll get. My favorites are the repeat postings that complain about nothing but price. These people have obviously been brought up to believe today's popular mantra that the world does, in fact, owe them a living. Oh well, it makes for entertaining reading, but not much else. OK, I feel better now.

The Rusty Rudder shares ownership with North Beach (bit not for long, as of late 2018), Ivy, the Bottle & Cork and Jimmy's Grille in Dewey Beach, Rehoboth and in Bridgeville, DE. The prime mover of Highway One LP is the nothing-if-not-colorful Alex Pires, successful attorney and producer of the movie, Mayor Cupcake, shot in and around Bridgeville, Rehoboth and Dewey Beach. Mr. Pires also owns Outlet Liquors in Rehoboth Beach and is part of the ownership of one of the most stable small banks in the state, Community Bank.

The Rusty Rudder is at 113 Dickenson Ave., smack on the Rehoboth Bay, to the right of the Hyatt Place/Ruddertowne Complex in Dewey Beach. Click for a look at the regular dinner menu. Off-season days and hours vary, so be sure to give them a call (302) 227-3888.

(L., D., late night) Price Range: Moderate +.

Off-season Specials & Hours