Meghan's Lee's Heirloom restaurant is comfortably ensconced in a refurbished mansion at 212 Savannah Road (corner of 3rd & Savannah) that dates back to 1899, when the floorplans were created by architect George F. Barber for original owner, J.B. Robinson, who used the building for his dentist office. Lee has integrated the old plans into the décor. Three cozy dining rooms seat around 65 people. There is a separate room with a bar and perimeter seating, along with a special chef's table (it's bright red – and looks great) in a private room with an observation window into the brand-new kitchen. Outdoor seating is also quite popular. Meghan, whose credits include Sovana Bistro in Kennett Square and the opening management of Talula’s Garden in Philadelphia, brings a wealth of fine-dining experience to Lewes.
Their ridiculously good sourdough bread is crunchy on the outside, light and yeasty on the inside wonderfulness is topped with sesame, caraway, fennel and pumpkin seeds. The butter that accompanies (in a cute little glass container) is made in house as well, using Lewes Dairy heavy cream. They even make the salt.
In mid-summer 2021, Executive Chef Matt Kern moved on from Heirloom. It happens. Chefs like to keep things fresh, and can often pick and choose when the opportunity arises. I have left the photos in the gallery of original chef Jordan's and Matt's dishes. I suspect Meghan will keep the quality up, so use these photos only as a reference!
Even in the off-season, seats are the holy grail at Heirloom. And like so many local fine-dining joints here are the beach, the menu changes often. So use the descriptions and images as a guideline only. The images posted here are from former chefs Matt and Jordan, but they are still quite representative of what you will discover when you visit Heirloom. The menu is easy to navigate, with a wide selection of items. “Beginnings” consists of eight selections ranging from salad to beef carpaccio. Our other beginnings included the Charred Atlantic Octopus. I developed a taste for octopus rather recently because of the excellent preparation at two other local eateries. Well, I now have to add Heirloom to that list. A magical combination of smoked chilis, twice-fried potatoes and … wait for it … butterscotch(!) makes for a taste greater than the sum of the parts. Get this dish! Another must-get is the Crispy Veal Sweetbreads. This is another dish for which I have acquired a taste because of some excellent local preparations. Meghan's Kennett roots are obvious in the bed of gently brandied mushrooms upon which the crispy, almost southern-fried sweetbreads sit. A light and golden tangle of potato-parsnip crisps tops it off. The darn thing is as fun to look at as it is to consume!
A slate of charcuterie appeared at the table. Thin-as-air slices of duck ham are accompanied by a spicy grain mustard and pickled onions. On the other side of the plate is a flavorful pork mortadella. I suspect that the choices of meats and preparation will change with the seasons. This was the prefect preprandial bite and worked perfectly with a frosty and delightfully gingery Moscow Mule (decorated with rosemary, lemon and a couple of happy little cranberries).
Heirloom1/39 Heirloom2/39 Heirloom3/39 Heirloom4/39 Heirloom5/39 Chix under a brick6/39 Heirloom7/39 Sweetbreads with frizzles and ‘shrooms8/39 Kale salad9/39 the gingery mule10/39 The ‘shrooms11/39 That octopus12/39 Heirloom13/39 Short rib14/39 Heirloom15/39 Chicken Reoulade with kumquats, olives and rainbow carrots16/39 Crispy skin redfish with Kennett mushrooms17/39 Hudson Valley Foie Gras with maple-brandy poached pears and apples.18/39 Lancaster Chicken & Dumpling soup19/39 Pressed persimmon caprese20/39 Pot de Creme/dolce de leche/candied peanuts with ricotta beignets in the background21/39 Beef Tartare22/39 Seared Venison with cocoa nibs23/39 Matt's apple orchard salad24/39 Matt's version of the Berkshire pork chop25/39 Sweet potato biegnets!26/39 Matt's Grilled octopus27/39 A little cheese amuse28/39 Cherry pannacotta29/39 Matt's take on the Chicken under a Brick30/39 House-made Concord Grape Sorbet31/39 Duck with a poached egg raviolo.32/39 Matt's amazing Lambcetta33/39 Some bathroom humor at Heirloom.34/39 Peach Trifle35/39 Matt's Seared Scallops36/39 Matt's Seared Foie Gras37/39 I took this beignet closeup to show off a new lens.38/39 Matt's Beet Salad39/39
Shortly after they opened, one of the most popular dishes was the Crispy Chicken Under a Brick. This rather involved preparation creates an exterior crunch while maintaining a moist and juicy interior. It's kicked up even further with a honey/orange jus, crowned by a perfectly baked biscuit. In tribute to Meghan's Kennett Square history, we ordered the Kennett Square Mushroom Mix from the “Table Shares” section. The ‘shrooms were allowed to maintain their integrity with the simple addition of butter and some herbs. So many restaurants find it necessary to load their mushroom dishes up with spices and other strong flavors; at Heirloom, the mushrooms were given center stage.
After giving the obligatory lip service to being too full to even think about dessert, we proceeded to order the Heirloom Cookie Plate (it has since left the menu. Hope that it returns) with a French Press coffee service of Brazil Blue Diamond. I love the French press table presentation, and your brew doesn't get much fresher than that. Take a look at the photo gallery to see the cookies, which included ginger spice, a double chocolate-pistachio biscotti, an almond butter cookie, shortbread and a chocolate chip sea salt. I love it that our Cape Region dining mecca has gotten to the point where restaurants employ pastry chefs! I am going back to get the warm ricotta biegnets and the pink lady apple crumble. Again, I'm sure that the dessert choices will mirror the seasons.
Chadds Ford native Meghan Lee hit the ground running with Heirloom. Reservations are strongly recommended. Call 302-313-4065.