Rose & Crown

The reincarnation of the Rose & Crown in Lewes' boutique Hotel Rodney brings back memories of the original restaurant of the same name that used to be in the space now occupied by Jerry's Seafood (next door to The Buttery). After several shakeups here and there, Rose & Crown has continued to thrive for both lunch and dinner, and if anything the service and overall attitude is even better.

The menu is rife with comfort food and stuff people like. I will mention (as I do in most of the articles here) that menus change like the tides here at the beach. So things that I tried last week might not be on the menu this week. That being said, one of the stars of the appetizer show is the Fried Pickles. These are made fresh on the premises and come with a spicy mustard-based drizzle and a pretty blah Ranch dip. (I just don't get Ranch. Is it just me?! Don't answer that.) Skip the Ranch and enjoy the zippy drizzle atop the crispy, vinegary spears. The dish is the perfect starter.

Another little surprise is the Beer Battered Calamari. This unusual preparation has a thicker crust than what you might be used to, but that crust is dry, crunchy and well-spiced. I like the pickled jalapeno slices scattered here and there. Great idea.

We've had the Crab Deviled Eggs several times, and though they are pleasant, they could use more personality spice- and presentation-wise. Want personality? Cross your fingers that the 5-Onion Soup is still on the menu! This ain't yo' momma's onion soup: Roasted peppers, olives and a deliciously aggressive gruyere complement this bracing recipe, and it is simply wonderful. The R&C Wings are fairly typical, but I do love wings and these are well up to specifications, complete with the regulation sauce.

Another secret pleasure is the 16 Mile Sliders. Short ribs are braised in one of 16 Mile's signature brews, gruyere is melted over top, and they are presented on a surprisingly cute roll. Though I like the soft and yeasty Martin's-style “dinner roll” so popular with local sliderphiles, this one has more of an eggy brioche texture without being overly firm. I want to order two plates and make it dinner. The 16 Mile Sliders, as good as they are, now join a contender to the throne on the menu, The British Lobster Sliders: Curried lobster salad on three nice fresh rolls. I had these on my most recent visit, and if I had any gripe it would be that the lobster salad could be a “wetter”; it was a bit dry, even for me, especially after the soft rolls soaked up even more moisture. They are pretty new on the menu and hopefully a work in progress.

The bill of fare still tempts with homemade pretzels, Tater Tots, onion rings in 60 Minute-laced batter, and drunken clams redolent of andouille and something hoppy from Dogfish Head. I will remind you that Rose & Crown, like most local eateries, likes to change its menu on a regular basis. So some of these goodies might not be available, or might be seasonal. Govern yourself accordingly.

The Grilled Beetroot Salad is a beet-lover's dream-come-true. Deep crimson and bright gold beets are sliced and placed in a bed of arugula. But what comes next is a delicious curve ball: Olive tapenade and chevre. Like beets? Get this one. See? It's a menu with stuff people like.

The main course star of the show award is a dead heat among the Bacon Burger, the R&C Shepherd's Pie and the Pot Roast Platter. All three border on perfect. Let's start with the burger. Note there is no photo. Twice — yes, twice, I tell you, people who ordered the burger during a review visit attacked it before I could take a picture. Neither of these people are accompanying me on review visits again, though they both agree that the bacon burger is well worth the sacrifice. Why this mutinous behavior, you ask? Well, (1) apple smoked bacon is ground into the beef. Then, (2) the beef and the bacon are cooked together. Finally, (3) caramelized onions perch themselves atop the juicy, bacony patty, kicked up by a slice of cheddar. Do not miss this. And send me a photo, will ya?

The R&C Shepherd's Pie is made with expertly spiced duck confit stirred together with still-firm root veggies and topped with parm. The whole thing is relegated to the broiler, imparting a mouthwatering bronze patina to the cheese. The not-so-humble-any-more Shepherd's Pie never had it so good.

The Pot Roast is as pleasing to the eye as it was to the palate. Charred carrots share real estate with mashed potatoes (quite good, both atop the Shepherd's Pie and on this plate) and Rose & Crown's particularly perfect homemade potato chips. When you have the option, ALWAYS get the potato chips there. They have come up with 8 handy varieties, but I'll pass on the truffle oil option, thank you.

On our most recent visit, one of my Favorite Foodettes ordered the beer-battered Fish & Chips. There are two schools of thought when it comes to beer batter. The first is that it must be light, dry and crackle when you bite into it. The other is that is should be firm, yet soft. My experience suggests that the great majority prefer the crispy school-of-thought. Unfortunately, the Fish & Chips at Rose & Crown do not fall into that category. The coating, though pleasing to the eye, was soft, bordering on soggy. My F.F. did not like it. There is, however, a silver lining to this piscene dark cloud: When she sent it back, the server could not have been more agreeable and gracious. No frown, no guilt, no attitude, no nonsense. A beautiful chopped salad magically appeared at the table to keep the aforementioned Foodette busy until her alternative (pork chops) arrived. This little scene speaks well for the Rose & Crown. So avoid the Fish & Chips if you like 'em crispy, but if something happens (and it can, does and often will, pretty much anyplace), they spring into action like a SWAT Team, minus the black helicopters and that “Hut! Hut!” noise. We were impressed.

The aforementioned pork chop is darkly seared but still tender and juicy and is covered in a nicely spiced spinach mixture.

Another new star of the show is the steak & mushrooms. I find it hard to believe that they can do this for around $18, but they do. One of the pickiest eaters I know (truth be told, she borders on annoying) loved this dish. I am so pleased about the pork chop and the steak that I have adjusted the previous ratings to reflect the improvement.

On two of our visits, accompanying diners ordered the Portabella Burger. Both times they loved it. The mushroom is perfectly cooked and drizzled with balsamic. Spinach, ricotta and onion rings (yup, right on the sandwich!) top it off. This thing will draw vegetarians from far and wide. It's everything you want a burger to be, but without the meat.

I usually don't make a big deal about dessert, but on our most recent visit we ordered the Local Apple Cobbler — a la mode, of course, in response to a friendly but well-executed upsell. In this deconstructed version, the apples were still crisp, with lots of cinnamon and brown sugar. The rest of the plate was a work of art. I suspect you will only see this one in the fall.

The original Rose & Crown opened in '83 at the other end of Second Street near the Buttery. It closed in '05. This new Rose & Crown, relocated in the very spiffy looking Hotel Rodney at the corner of Second and Market sts., is a refreshingly friendly and attractive change from the perpetually-in-the-weeds and undeservedly impressed with itself Beseme that used to occupy the lobby. The seating extends into the lobby — the Holy Grail of happy hour seating.

The Rose & Crown in Lewes is definitely worth visiting. The menu has evolved and the few false starts have morphed into better things. The anchors are in place, and it's obvious that Lewes has embraced its new pub.

Rose & Crown is open 7 days for lunch and dinner from 11 to 11, with a happy hour from 4-6 Monday through Friday. Always double check: (302) 827-4475. Click here for a look at the menu. (L., D., Bar) Price range: Moderate.

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