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Salt Air

/ Updated on October 12, 2016
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The wildly popular Salt Air was purchased several years ago by talented restaurateurs Eric and Norman Sugrue. Together these guys operate what is quite possibly the largest square footage of restaurant space in downtown Rehoboth Beach, as Salt Air joins Big Fish Grill, Summer House and the brand-new as of spring 2014 Crab House in the lineup at Big Fish Restaurant Group. I’ll tell you this right up front: Salt Air regularly changes many items on their menu, so use this article only as a guide. Our experience has shown that no matter what they replace with what, that it’s all quite good. So govern yourself accordingly!

Salt Air is back to its old self again. It’s busy, upbeat, noisy and fun. Collisions with servers, guests transporting martini glasses (with mixed success!) in the narrow entrance area are de rigueur and are definitely part of the Salt Air experience. A busy, fully open kitchen leaves nothing to the imagination, and a cute table reservation system texts you when your table is ready. The close-by Confucius, Henlopen City Oyster House, Stoney Lonen and Papa Grande’s were certainly holding their own, but now there’s even more life at that end of Wilmington Avenue where all 5 eateries are quite literally next-door neighbors. For some reason that makes me very happy. There. I shared.

Eric and Norm kept the Salt Air “picnic” concept originally envisioned by original owner Jonathan Spivak and the late Matt Haley (in a consulting role only). And well they should have. Again, note: The menu changes regularly, so some of the following items may not be on this season’s lineup.

The festivities begin with a basket of toasted flatbread accompanied by a spread consisting mainly of chevre. A hint of blue cheese suggests other ingredients too. The flatbread was quite good, but the all-important bread/spread ratio is a bit off. We needed more cheese spread, and I suspect they would have brought more if we had asked.

You can’t start without the Crab Deviled Eggs (it’s late May 2016 and I’ve had them 5 times since this was originally written!). Served 4 to a plate, they are creamy and not too crabby. A dash of Old Bay kicks them up perfectly. I also like to get the marinated olives and sort of pace them over the meal, using them as little exclamation marks as the dinner progresses.

The Angus Burger Sliders are simple and good. The generous portion could serve as a meal for the dainty. All of these are in the clever “Snack Bar” area of the menu, which includes Roasted Almonds (a Haley favorite), Chilled Prawns and a delicious little plate of Sardines and Crackers.

There are clever little touches everywhere, like the Boardwalk Fries (in peanut oil, of course) served with little ramekins of ketchup and malt vinegar. They march out of the kitchen sticking boldly out of a miniature version of a Thrasher’s-style tub. It’s even got the Salt Air logo on it. Another surprise is the Old Bay & Chipotle Roasted Wings, punctuated by slices of pickled pepper. Wing lovers will appreciate the crunchy, charred finish.

Salt Air joins a(Muse.) with their own version of “Bacon and Egg.” The Sugrues use pork belly and a duck egg. It is quite good, with not too much fat on the bacon. Our egg was perfectly done both times.

Every one of our early visits to Salt Air included the Yankee Gumbo, sporting massive chunks of chorizo and crab. At the risk of sounding like I’m on Sugrue’s payroll, it was simply delicious. They are not shy with the spice, and I even took a second photo just to show you all the sausage. Put it in a bowl with a hunk of bread and it’s a meal.

Another photogenic (and equally delicious) starter is the Roasted Beet Salad. Bright yellow beets (who wooda thought?) are topped with a whipped goat-cheese topping, not unlike what was paired with the preprandial flatbread amuse.

Another wonderful menu feature carried over into this reincarnation is the ability to choose between a dinner or side portion of the salads. Salads are a science at Big Fish Grill, and that apparently applies also to Salt Air. As far as I am concerned, the Kitchen Sink Salad, evenly chopped and bathed in avocado dressing, is the star of that leafy show.

One of my favorites at the original Salt Air was the Shrimp and Grits. When I wrote reviews of that dish served elsewhere, it wasn’t easy finding the right words to politely say that Salt Air’s were the best. Grilled asparagus spears top this incarnation of the dish, and history repeats itself. It is full of flavor, not too “soupy” or buttery (a problem elsewhere) and the shrimp were perfectly cooked.

Salmon is one of the stars at Big Fish Grill, and it is again sharing center stage at Salt Air. The Scottish Salmon (you can tell by the tiny plaid beret) basks in a sea of corn, peach and arugula salad. The sweet jalapeño glaze imparts the tiniest amount of heat and forms a mouthwatering char on the massive portion of fish.

On each visit, at least one diner ordered the Pan Fried Soft Shell Crabs, none the least of which, myself. I had heard negative things about the accompanying hushpuppies, but for us they were perfectly crunchy every time. As of this writing, the place has only been open about a month, so perhaps that was part of the inescapable growing pains. Like Soft Shells? Get these. The bed of succotash pairs perfectly with the crunchy crustacean.

I can’t finish without mentioning the crab cakes. Served with those dark and peanutty boardwalk fries and a crunchy cabbage slaw, they are firmly packed with crabmeat. The binder is nicely spiced, but not so much as to drown out the delicate taste of the crab. I know everybody has their own preference when it comes to crab cakes, but do try these. A quick, golden sear on both sides gives them a buttery crispness.

Two other offerings on the “Ocean” menu include the Almond Crusted Mahi perched atop a pile of mashers and the Seared Scallops with that nutty succotash. Both are quite delicious and equally good over several visits.

Salt Air used to serve a dish called the “Chicken Feast,” which I loved, in spite of the fact that it was occasionally ever-so-slightly underdone. The new Salt Air has renamed it the Organic 1/2 Chicken. The skin is just as tight and crispy as its predecessor, and it was cooked all the way to the bone. Thanks, guys. Sometimes you just need a plain ol’ chicken, and this one fills the bill.

This will be the first review where I mention a kids’ menu. But something has to be said about the kids’ menu at Salt Air. It’s refreshingly clever, without all the chicken-finger and hot dog nonsense. Get this: A Grilled Fish Filet, Roasted Chicken Breast, and … (wait for it) … a Grilled Petit Filet Mignon. These, along with a kid’s burger/fries and a bowl of pasta with Parmesan, range from $7 to $13, and are served with fresh fruit. On one of our visits, we were lucky to be in the presence of a diner who is well-versed at being a kid, and he loved the rather classy choices. He ended up with the Angus Sliders from the adult menu, thank you.

UPDATE! It’s after midnight, but I have to tell you about a couple of adds to the menu. One is the Pappardelle Bolognese. Simple but excitingly tasty. The other is the duck/onion flatbread. I posted a photo because I had to show it to you. And it tastes as good as it looks.

We now return you to our program already in progress:

I think long and hard before I rate a restaurant at a 4-stars or higher. But several factors influenced my decision. (1) The menu is cleverly laid out and offers a wide variety of items, large, small and in-between. And for lack of better words, it’s just stuff you like to eat. (2) During each of our visits, the service was very good, especially our most recent when we were waited on by the very funny, clever and efficient Trisha. (3) Extra touches include the unusual kids menu, the Salt Air logo tubs for the fries, other cool-looking logo stuff, the well-appointed physical plant and the straight-ahead no-nonsense preparation and consistency of the food. These factors really left us no choice. I guard my stars very closely, and we will continue to return in hopes that this level of quality will continue. The ratings will always reflect the most recent visit. These people are professionals and we expect no less from them.

I am of the opinion that Salt Air is back, with a vengeance. I have driven by several items a week and it’s been crowded every time. Local artwork graces the bar, the kitchen is  fun to watch, the staff is upbeat and helpful. All this adds up to success.

All’s well that ends well. Jonathan is free of the ties that bind, Nino is doing … whatever…, and Big Fish Restaurant Group is doing what they do best: running a big, noisy, beachy and reasonably priced eatery with consistently good food and service.

Salt Air is at 50 Wilmington Avenue, directly across from Confucius Gourmet Chinese. They do take reservations (302) 227-3744. As of this writing, they are open 5-9, but expect longer hours as they settle down. Click here to take a look at a sample menu. (D., Bar) Price Range: Moderate +.

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Special thanks to Arlene Carmel (our young diner’s Bubbe) for the photos of the wings, the salmon, the sliders and the water jar.

Off-season Specials & Hours

Specials & Moods change quickly. Always call a restaurant first.

pp = per person.
BOGO = buy one, get one.
Bloody = bloody mary.
domestics = American-made beers (e.g., Bud).
imports = foreign beers (e.g., Heineken).
Rails = non call-brand alcohol.
Prix Fixe = one set price.
Mains = entrees.
Margs = margaritas.
Chix = chicken.
AYCE = all you can eat.
Lite = Miller Lite
drafts = draught beer.
Early Birds = arrive before a certain time.
Apps = Appetizers.
bottles = beer in a bottle.
à la carte = order off the menu (no prix fixe).
crafts = micro/artisanal brews (e.g., Old Leghumper Lager)

50 Wilmington Ave.
302-227-3744

Sunday
Open 5-9
Monday
Open 5-9
Tuesday
Open 5-9
Wednesday
Open 5-9
Thursday
Open 5-9
Friday
Open 5-10
Saturday
Open 5-10
The Rehoboth Foodie

About the Author

"My goal is to promote Rehoboth Beach dining while remaining honest and impartial. I don’t gush unless a place deserves it, and I don’t pull punches, either. With so many good places to eat around here, it just doesn’t make sense to waste the calories — or the money — on anything less." View all articles written by The Rehoboth Foodie

Add Your Comment
  1. Food Lover says:

    Salt Air is a winner. Consistently good. Great service, tasty food, and creative artisnal cocktails (their Manhattan is a must order). Just tried their new Sunday brunch last week and really enjoyed it as well. Perfectly cooked Steak and eggs, homemade quiche of the day, crispy roasted potatoes, and hand rolled baked biscuits — Yum! Great Bloody Mary’s too. Tough to get reservations but worth the wait.

  2. bill says:

    great food. great service. bartender pours heavy. complete paradise.

  3. Chelly says:

    Went there twice recently. There were six of us the first time, two of us the second. Both were great. I especially loved their tuna and tomato tartare, their mussels with mustard, and their seared bass with heirloom tomatoes. And floved my white Sangria.

    Service was exceptional with the manager stopping by TWICE to ensure we were happy campers. I can’t wait to return.

  4. Cranky Gourmet says:

    I agree Salt Air is back! I was reluctant to dine at Salt Air this year after my experiences last year but I was pleasantly surprised!
    Even without a reservation the wait was only 10 minutes and the food was terrific.
    I enjoyed the scrapple crusted cod. The service was terrific and the new menu is worth a repeat trip!

  5. blase says:

    Very impressed. Best scallops I have ever tasted. They do melt in your mouth. I ordered the scallop and crawdad etoufee over rice

  6. Zack says:

    We visited Salt Air after reading your review and the high rating you gave the restaurant. Two of us ordered the vegetarian dish and both were disappointed!
    Imagine 5 spears of asparagas, a few morsels of dates and figs, a tomato wedge, 2 forks worth of greens and a very 2 small ramikins of mashed potatoes spread out on a huge rectangular plate like the one pictured above. It would not have been difficult to add a few vegetables to the dish since there are so many fresh ones available this time of year. Two others in our party ordered fish dishes and were happy with the food but noted there was nothing oustanding about it.

  7. MJ of Milton says:

    We were regulars at the original Salt Air and we were SO disappointed when they remodeled and then started to slide. Why change perfection? But I went there with a friend for dinner shortly after the recent reopening and we were delighted that the new owners have honored the original concept and the food and service were excellent. My only quibble: I loved the pimiento cheese that they used to serve with the crackers, but the goat cheese spread is good, too. Salt Air is back, yay!

  8. Always Hungry says:

    It’s everything a restaurant should be.

  9. T&T says:

    They are definitely back! SO back that we couldn’t get a seat for an hour last weekend. That’s OK. We live here and we’re going back tonight.
    obviously we’re not the only people who are enjoying this place. Sad about the former owners, but all’s well that ends well.

  10. Anna W. and Ted says:

    Well, foodie, we promised ourselves we’d NEVER go back after our horrendous experience last summer. But we put our trust in you! :o)
    and wow are we glad we did. We;ve been twice in the last two weeks. Had a little slow service last time, but they were completely full, and the server did her best to keep up. She not only brought us a couple of glasses of wine on the house, but the food made up for any problems.
    thank you foodie, for doing our experimenting for us!!

  11. Barry and Linda says:

    We were one of those who posted negative comments while the last version of Salt Air was slowly spiraling out of control. We are glad you deleted them, as they do not apply to the new Salt Air.
    We took your advice, and we’ve been back three times so far. The only thing similar to the old place (in its last 6 months or so) is the name and some of the items on the menu. And our 10 year-old LOVES the kids menu.
    You’re right, sir. Salt Air is back.

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