Villa Sorrento

Click here to listen to owner Mara DePace interviewed on Sip & Bite with the Rehoboth Foodie. And she'll sing for you too!

Owner Mara DePace's childhood memories of Sunday Italian dinners with family and friends inspired her to go into the restaurant business over 27 years ago. Villa Sorrento in Lewes is a friendly crowded spot that is testament to her love for food and fun (more about that later). Tucked-away directly across from the Walgreen's on Savannah Road just past the Villages of Five Points, this is good, basic Italian with burgers, cheesesteaks and parm sandwiches for lunch, plus all the required Italian main courses for dinner.

I always suggest you start with the Chopped Antipasto Salad. It's cool, crispy and loaded with Italian meats and cheeses. Everything was chopped to the same size (making it easy to deal with it fork-wise). If you're looking for the quintessential “big salad,” this is it. I get it every time I go.

Another in our party had the Caesar Salad and she loved it, with the sharp and cheesy Pecorino/Romano topping apparently sealing the deal. I have to say that another member of our party found the dressing to be too sweet. Each to his own. My preferred dining companion started with the Italian Wedding Soup, loaded with happy little meatballs and noodles. The bowl was spotless upon its removal. ‘Nuff said.

For dinner, that same culinary cohort ordered “Tony's Favorite,” a veal scallopini dish loaded with shrimp and crabmeat in a light brown sauce. It was one of the stars of the show, and was pronounced delicious (I tried some, and it was). The other star of the show was the Stuffed Shells, four or five large shells bursting with ricotta and mozzarella and topped with light marinara. I have to trust the person who ordered the shells: First of all, his name is “Tony” for goodness sake, and second, he could very well qualify as a Foodie in his own right. He gets the shells every time he's at Villa Sorrento.

One of the stars of the show is indeed the Veal Marsala (with wild mushrooms and a golden brown Marsala wine sauce). It is perfect every time. A vegetarian member of our group chowed down on the Lasagnette Con Spinaci Al Forno. The generously portioned dish was covered in creamy mozzarella, and there had to be a half-pound of spinach in the thing. Veggie-heads (and carnivores alike) will not leave hungry.

The Chicken (and veal) Francais is another tasty standby, served with artichokes. Perfectly battered and fried scallopines are topped with a light wine sauce. As easy on the eyes as it is on the tummy.

The Stuffed Shells are yet another Villa Sorrento go-to dish. Filled with showy white ricotta, they are topped with a thin layer of mozzarella and their not-too-heavy marinara.

On a more recent visit we ordered the linguini pescatore for the first time, and it is delicious. It can be ordered with red sauce (like a cioppino) or with a wine/butter sauce. The pizza is now nicely done (I order pizzas well done anyway), and I said it above, but I'll say it again: Order the Chopped Antipasto Salad. The chopped version costs a little more, but it's well worth it. The house Italian dressing is OK, but a little bland for my taste. I much prefer their bright and acidic balsamic dressing. Loaded with spices, it works perfectly on the antipasto.

One of my favorites at Villa Sorrento is the Chicken Parm. It's simple and uncomplicated. The chicken is pounded to the perfect thickness, and then baked with marinara and mozzarella. I suggest passing on the pasta accompaniment (nothing all that special) and maybe getting something else on the side.

Check out the Chicken Saltimbocca (a sauteed chicken breast layered with fresh sage, prosciutto and mushrooms, then topped with that wine sauce and perched atop a bed of bright green sauteed spinach) and the Veal Parmesan, layered with creamy cheese and their light (not too thick, not too sweet) marinara. The lemony Chicken Francaise (we ordered it yet again) was also thin and lean, prepared with a light egg batter.

Speaking of food and fun, be on guard for Mara to burst into song without warning! It could be anything from Dean Martin's “That's Amore” to Three Dog Night's “Joy to the World” (you know, the one about the bullfrog), or even an aria from some opera, oratorio or cantata. When she's not slingin' pasta, she is a good singer! It's not unusual for everybody (properly lubricated with alcohol, to be sure) to join in. This crowded, noisy little place is warm and friendly and you will not leave hungry.

We went in there a while ago with a group of 4. We started with the Shrimp Palermo appetizer special (broccoli rabe with shrimp). It was bright green, firm and the restrained spice didn't upstage the shrimp. For entrees, one member took Tony's advice (yes, the same Tony, see above) and had the stuffed shells. He loved 'em. But the star of the show was the Fettuccini Carbonara. The surprisingly light Parmesan/cream sauce, combined with bits of fried pancetta and bacon (throw in a few peas, too) topped the al dente fettuccini very nicely.

One of my favorite Foodies-in-Waiting had the Chicken Piccata. The little breast pieces were pounded appetizingly thin, and the golden coating was flavorful and not bready. She pronounced it fresh and lemony (I'd better watch out…she's getting good at this stuff). I had that big chopped salad (told you so…), though I wish Mara would pair it with a not-so-ordinary dressing (or at least offer a choice).

I have to tell you this: At the peak of the evening (the place was packed), Mara began to sing an Italian ballad for a very old lady who might have been a relative. After a few lines, people began to take notice and it wasn't long before the entire restaurant fell into silence as her trained voice filled the room. Other than the sounds of the kitchen, you could have heard a pin drop. When Mara finished, applause rang out. It was the perfect musical touch for a tasty evening.

At the moment, Villa Sorrento's hours are as follows: Tues thru Friday 11 to 2 for lunch and 4 to 9 for dinner. Saturday and Sunday 3 to 9 . For takeout , curbside pick up, delivery and dine in, call for reservations 302 644-7052. is open every day except Monday. Sadly, there is no reliable online menu, but they do use Deliveroso, and you can observe the menu there. (L., D.) Price range: Moderate.

Off-season Specials & Hours