Cultured Pearl

The Cultured Pearl makes quite an impression in its highly visible perch at the corner of Rehoboth and Lake Avenues. Rooftop dining is prime real estate during the summer, and they certainly have their loyal followers.  A recent remodel has placed the sushi bar where the regular bar used to be, and the bar is now one flight up on the restaurant level. Seems like a good idea all-around to have the bar closer to the dining area — certainly from the servers' point of view.

The reception area is nestled at the bottom of a grand stairway suspended above a gurgling koi pond. Ascending past the (very talkative) tropical birds, you may choose to observe the busy sushi makers, or step up to the streamlined bar by the glass-walled dining room (part of which overlooks Rehoboth Avenue, and is divided by running water). or glide out to the beautifully designed rooftop seating area. You forget that you're on the roof as you relax at bar-height tables topped by gazebos and suspended over a 15,000 gallon rooftop lake that is home to various aquatic species swimming just below your feet. There is quite possibly no better place to be on a warm, breezy summer evening in Rehoboth Beach.

In the first several reviews and updates of the Cultured Pearl, I reported on issues with offhanded and borderline rude treatment at the front desk. They acted like you were trying to get into Studio 54 back in the '70s. And readers agreed with me. However, times (and staff) change, and I have been back several times over the last few months. There is no evidence of that bad attitude whatsoever. The people at the front desk are friendly, chatty and very willing to help in any way. They look you in the eye and greet you as if they are actually happy to see you. This was not the case several years ago. Combine this new attitude with the consistently good food, and the place continues to be a winner.

The Cultured Pearl changes the menu regularly (not as much as some RB places, however), and seasonal specials appear and disappear. Though the concept is obviously Japanese; and in particular sushi, there's a whole lot more on the menu. Susan's husband, Chef Robert, keeps regulars guessing with specials and unusual goodies. The restaurant wisely maintains a special “kids' section” where families with young children can enjoy themselves without disturbing other diners or feeling uncomfortable. What a great idea!

I will reiterate that menus change with the wind here in Rehoboth, so hopefully at least some of the following goodies will be on the menu.

I always start with the seasoned Edamame (they have 5 varieties), and the to-die-for Cream of Crab Soup (add jalapeno cheese bread, thank you). I really like the Cultured Salad, too. It has a great acidic/textural thing going on with mandarin orange, cranberries, bacon, blue cheese and pine nuts. I've been known to order two and make it dinner. My regular dining companions get the Warm Asian Chopped Salad with chicken, corn, onions, peppers, sugar snap peas, chilis, chopped soy and chopped peanuts.

We love the Veggie Tempura appetizer, and you can also get shrimp tempura. The texture of the tempura batter is (almost always) crispy and non-greasy. I have to admit that some of the vegetables have come out a little soggy and tasting of oil a couple of times (frying temp too low? Not properly dried before frying?), but the shrimp variety are always perfect (and are also available as an entree). Don't miss the deep fried shrimp, pork and mushroom springrolls and the shrimp or pork dumplings — both are quite good with tasty dipping sauces.

The Sushi selection is huge and varied. I have had the Firecracker (tempura tuna and salmon, wrapped in Nori with bright green jalapenos, cool crabmeat with a spicy Sriracha exclamation point). My regular companions who know Sushi always get the various combinations. There's something for everybody, both cooked and uncooked.

Do try the Flower Trio from the sushi small-plates list. It is an impressive presentation with tuna, salmon and sashimi “flowers” made of yellowtail (ahi). The kicker? It comes with the REAL, 100% wasabi. Most wasabi is actually colored horseradish (wasabi is a type of horseradish), but better sushi joints make the real stuff available to the cognoscenti. Most of the time you have to ask, and there will always be an upcharge.

In the salad department, I always get the Kimchee (spicy pickled veggies) and the tuna avocado. Both are cool and refreshing with a kick. A new addition is the sashimi combo which is as delicious as it is beautiful to behold.

On the entree menu, my favorite is the Cashew Chicken. It's nothing like your corner Chinese carry-out. It's sweet and crunchy with fresh ingredients with a pleasing jasmine twist. The green curry beef and the yellow curry shrimp have both been happily devoured in my presence. The Korean BBQ and the Thai stir-fry are both popular and delicious to view and to taste. The aforementioned light and crispy Shrimp Tempura is a regular staple at The Pearl. Please note, yet again, that like many local eateries, the Pearl varies its menu with the seasons. So some of the dishes I describe here might not be available when you go.

UPDATE: We went to last Monday's “Summer Monday Late-Night Sushi Special” with a party of 6. We snarfed up various combinations of the Kappa Roll (cukes and sesame), the Dynamite (tuna, salmon crab, broiled with spicy mayo) and, of course, the obligatory California (crabstick, cukes and avocado). We all opted for the upsell and paid a little more for the Firecracker Rolls. They are delicious. I wish they would serve more of that fiery Sriracha sauce on the side. I love the stuff. I probably should have ordered some on the side. Duh.

YET ANOTHER UPDATE: After many more visits to the Cultured Pearl (including a couple of specialty buffets that were quite tasty), I have concluded that the servers are, for the most part, friendly and efficient. And the food continues to be top-notch.

By the way, in response to your emails agreeing with me about the noise, they have redesigned the layout so the live bands are not up against the horrifically reflective (as far as sound is concerned) glass. This makes for a much more pleasant experience with the live music. I have adjusted the noise ratings accordingly.   But do note that whatever noise problems there may be disappear out on the roof (except for the occasional bus or if you are unfortunate enough to be out there during Bike Week in Ocean City). Give it a try!

The Cultured Pearl is at 301 Rehoboth Avenue at Lake Ave. Look for the Starbucks. Call (302) 227-8493 to check hours and specials or to make reservations. Check out the menus and the fun graphics at their web site. You can also follow them on Facebook. (D., Bar) Price Range: Expensive.

Off-season Specials & Hours