The Crab House

Many years ago, there was a restaurant called The Crab House in the building that now houses Big Fish Grill on Coastal Highway. It was much smaller than the present facility. When the Sugrue family took over that property to open the first of what is now 6 big restaurants plus a market and Big Fish Wholesale Seafood, the idea of a down-home style crab joint with brown paper, hammers and piles of fries sprinkled with Old Bay never strayed far from their minds.

In the meantime, slightly farther north, The Crab Barn, Wahoo, Timothy’s and most recently Beachcomber were all taking turns trying to survive across from Tanger Seaside Outlets. Though it seems like the perfect spot for a casual eatery, each one eventually gave up the ghost for one reason or another. We won’t go into that. I have to live here, y’know.

Eric and Norm Sugrue finally got their wish, and The Crab House is up and running. Their Big Fish Restaurant Group brings a lot more to that storied building than just a couple of beer taps, ESPN and happy hour wings. They bring years of experience in kitchen layout, management, buying, hiring and training. While some restaurants blame “the economy” for their missteps, Norm and Eric’s places are busy just about every night. The old saying about opening a new business is true, with one minor modification: Build it – properly – and they will come. And we hope the reports of inconsistency are just hiccups as they find their sea legs. Sadly, the fried chicken (I raved about it when they first opened) seems to be spiraling down into mediocrity. More about that later.

After several visits this year (late 2016) I have to report that Crab House has dropped a few notches in terms of food preparation. In addition to continuing hushpuppy disappointment, the fried chicken that started out so good is now consistently dry, as if it was held too long. I thought some of these issues were growing pains, but I worry that the restaurant has slipped.

The Crab House is quintessential … well, crab house. All the staples are there, plus a few surprises Some are OK, and some not so much. Of course it’s all about the crabs. The menu proudly proclaims that “All of our crabs are #1 premium male crabs, steamed live to order.” Site visitor comments and my own experience doesn't bear this out. More often than not customers report lukewarm or soggy crabs. I know crabs can be inconsistent by definition, but the cooking process shouldn't be. The appetizers are tasty and plentiful, and when they opened, quite possibly the star of the show was the hushpuppies. When they are made properly, the outside is dark and crunchy, with an inside that’s neither dry nor grainy; in fact you can almost call them creamy. Note that I say, “When they are made properly.” On our last two visits the hushpuppies were not as moist as they were in the beginning. What changed? Are they making them too far in advance? Not sure.  But it seems this has become a trend. Wow I miss those original hushpuppies.

The Fried Oysters are a must-get. Cooking these is an art: Oil too hot, and all the coating blows off and you get a sadly limp glob of who-knows-what. Oil too cool, they are soggy and greasy. Three times I ordered these little gems they were perfect. A nice crunchy bite, but not so much coating that the oyster is lost. They also have Clam Strips – usually a frozen product (you can tell – it’s like eating rubber bands), but these are fresh. Again – the coating-to-clam ratio is well executed and they are quite good. They’re served with tartar sauce. I’d love it if they’d squirt a little Sriracha in there.

The Crab Balls also qualify for best in (the appetizer) show. They are basically a fried version of Norm’s closely guarded crab cake recipe. But bite size. A delicate but decisive “crunch” welcomes you into these little orbs; immediately followed by a well-spiced mixture of crab something good (but secret). Another must-get, and they have been good every time. Sadly, recent visits have produced balls that are rather dry and seem to have been pre-cooked.

If you frequent Salt Air in downtown Rehoboth Beach, you will recognize the Crabby Deviled Eggs, lightly redolent of Old Bay. They are served cold and make for a great shared starter. Take a look at the photo! At the moment there are 11 entrées from which to choose.

The crab cakes do remain as good as before, and everything I said about the Crab Balls appetizer goes for the Crab Cakes, except for three things: (1) You can get them broiled or fried, (2) they are bigger, and (3) you can get them as a sandwich. I love ‘em fried. Sadly, the crab cake sandwich is not as good as before since BFRG stopped carrying those wonderful rolls. They decided they could make them better, but my experience so far suggests that they have not, and that the new rolls are not as good.

Snow Crab Legs are fairly priced at $21/lb. They are heavy and yield lots of meat. Of course, eating these things is an art and you get out of them what you put in. Same thing with the Alaskan King Crabs, more expensive by definition and priced by the pound at market. Topping off the list of crabby goodies is Crab Imperial, overflowing with crabmeat. And it’s a lot of crabmeat for $24.

Shrimp come in three versions. (1) Stuffed with Crab Imperial and then baked. (2) Fried, with that signature delicate coating that doesn’t steal the spotlight from the little shrimp, and (3) steamed with cocktail sauce. All of these shrimp treatments are quite good, and each brings something special to fulfill whatever craving you might have.

Carnivores need not sit out in the car checking their email. In fact, the non-maritime items are also quite good. An order of fried chicken consists of 3 pieces; a half-chicken without the wing. The breading is simple and straight ahead, aromatic of black pepper and salt. Sometimes that’s all you need. When they first opened, each order of chicken was crispy, and the meat was moist and juicy. But I am getting more and more reports that the chicken is dry and a bit soggy on the outside. Are they frying it up in advance and holding it? I am not sure, but I will admit that the last time I had the chicken there it was not up to par. Guys! Please bring the chicken back to where it was when you opened! The same thing goes for their ribs. They aren't even close to Bethany Blues or anyone who cooks their ribs from scratch, and the meat on my last couple of visits was like jerky.

They also have baby back ribs and a double-patty version of the delicious Summer House and Big Fish grill hamburgers. The ribs are nicely tender, but not soggy (sometimes “fallin’ off the bone” can go to extremes). Recently, they have been rather dry and seem to have been cooked a while ago. The sauce is moderately spicy, but not on the sweet side.

One of the features of The Crab House menu is the combo platters. You can choose a platter consisting of any 2 or 3 of the ribs, steamed or fried shrimp, crab cake, ½ fried or rotisserie chicken or ½ lb. of snow crab legs. This is a steal for the price, considering what you’d pay for any one of these entrees alone. And these are generous plates that remind me of the heaping “Fishermen’s Platters” of yesteryear.

If you’re with a group, one of the best deals is the All You Can Eat Feast consisting of the crabs, fried chicken, fries, hush puppies and slaw. All this for $39. You can add ribs, snow crab legs or steamed shrimp for just a few bucks more. Don’t think you’re gonna go in there and share under the table. Do note my caveats above re the chicken and ribs. They know this is a good deal, and they watch out for cheaters or people who want to carry it home. Don’t mess up a good thing! Be nice so you can go back and get more at the very fair price.

Last but not least is the Delaware Clam Bake platter with 3 large Blue Crabs, a dozen Clams, a half-pound of shrimp, corn and potatoes. Again, top it off with Snow Crab Legs, Steamed Mussels or King Legs for just a few bucks more.

Of course, there are salads, Maryland Clam Chowder and a Fresh Fish Board that changes with the wind. It all depends on what was swimmin’ out there yesterday! By the way, there are a huge number of taps with all sorts of interesting craft beers. After all, beer pairs perfectly with that menu.

The Crab House is at 19598 Coastal Highway across from Tanger Seaside Outlet. As of this writing, they are open 7 days for dinner. Call 302-227-2019 to check off-season hours; word is that they might not be open year-round. We’ll see. (D., Bar). Price range: Moderate +.

Off-season Specials & Hours