Back Porch Cafe

New owners have taken over The Back Porch as of early 2020. Dmitry Shubich and Aksana Voranova worked there for years and are now the bosses. The sadly late Executive Chef Tim McNitt had moved on to Harbour in Lewes before he passed away suddenly. Longtime barkeep Bee Neild remains, as does just about their entire longtime kitchen staff. There have been some menu changes, but since the kitchen and bar are still being run by (mostly) the same people, I have left the most recent review here for you to read as a guideline.

Like most local sit-down restaurants, The Back Porch varies its menu depending on the season and available ingredients. In addition, a new chef in the kitchen has certainly made some changes. However, many of the menu favorites remain. So some of the dished I describe here might – or might not – be on the menu. On our most recent visit, I started with the Grilled Shrimp Sausage with Parsnip Marmalade and a Chick Pea Fritter. The sausage was brightly spiced, but not so much that you couldn't taste the shrimp. The little silver-dollar sized bean cake was caramelized on the outside and moist on the inside. The marmalade was the perfect foil for the maritime edge of the shrimp.

Other starters included the Brown Sugar/Tea Smoked Duck Breast over Sesame Noodles. A polite drizzle of Sriracha added a spicy exclamation mark. It was an amazing portion for $14 and could have served as a light entree. The skin was tight and crispy, with the tannic bite of the tea playing well with the naturally fatty and moist duck.

Mains included the Seared Rabbit Loin with Roasted Red Pepper Paprikash (a Hungarian stew based on a roux of paprika). The portion looked like a chicken quarter and was perfectly done. I had the Chili Cocoa Rubbed Pork Filet. The tenderloin section was seared on the outside, delightfully medium on the inside, sliced and nested atop a buttery mound of Sweet Potato Puree accompanied by Black Bean Adobo. I can't believe I'm saying this: It was perfect.

The Oven Roasted Guinea Hen rested ever so happily on a bed of Pancetta and Butternut Pudding. It was nicely sized and amazingly meaty. The Grilled King Salmon was flanked by Green Lentils and drizzled with a fig vinegar (!) and Mint Pesto. Note that Back Porch cooks with the freshest seasonal ingredients, so the menu changes like the wind. Use these descriptions as guidelines, 'cause you never know what these people are going to come up with next.

On a visit just before the takeover, our party of 4 started with the Crab Ravioli. The huge (at least 3″ square) pillows of pasta are filled with crabmeat with Sea Beans (naturally salty, succulent little plants that grow in the ocean). All of this floats in a Lemon Vin Blanc (a creamy white wine sauce containing what tasted like fish or crab veloute). The Bocconcini appetizer consisted of cool white mozzarella balls (a combination of cow and water buffalo milk) on a bed of artichoke and arugula with a mild pistachio vinaigrette. The parade of appetizers continued with the Calamari Manicotti. Get ready for this: The “shell” was actually the body of the little squid (minus the scary tentacles), stuffed to a generous plumpness with a mix of guanciale (unsmoked Italian bacon made from pork cheeks), pine nuts and fresh peas. The happy cephalopods were enrobed in a not-at-all imposing basil marinara.

In an interesting twist on the old-fashioned cucumber and onions, crispy Bob Russell (another foodie and gentleman farmer we lost in 2012) cucumbers were sliced into half-moons, sprinkled with fresh mint and drizzled with a nutty tahini vinaigrette. Last and certainly not least, the Grilled Porcini Mushroom was accompanied by chevre-infused gnocchi with sage in a creamy blueberry brown-butter. Every appetizer we've had so far at the Back Porch has been, in a word, delicious.

A recent main course was the Prosciutto-Wrapped Pork Loin. The gently salty Italian ham is wrapped around slightly pink in-the-center pork. I was able to cut it with the side of a fork, and the prosciutto remained intact so every bite included a taste of both meats. A disc of Polenta, infused with Fontina (a sharp Italian hard cheese), along with a colorful mix of morels, still-crispy leeks and bright cubes of carrot topped it off. On another visit I had the Domestic Lamb. The roughly Frenched chops were surrounded by an aromatic ragout of shank meat and vegetables. One of the kickers of that dish was a sea of deep-red linguini made with beet root and poppy seed. The Fresh Ricotta, Eggplant and Chanterelle Mushroom Lasagne entree was finished with that light basil Marinara that I suspect also graced the calamari. The crusty, fresh bread at the table (very much like a brick-oven French-style Pain au Levan) was the perfect tool for sopping up any remaining traces of that Marinara. Waste not, want not, I always say….

A Magret Duck Breast (“magret” meaning a lean portion of duck) was grilled with red coconut and curry. Two surprises on this plate: #1, the deliciously crispy and acidic Bok Choy. #2, a baseball-sized portion of (wait for it…) Green Tea Tapioca. The cool tannic bent of the tea played very nicely with the starchy softness of the tapioca pearls. All this was surrounded by a little lake of Pear Miso Broth. This was a party in your mouth if there ever was one.

A while ago I had the Ginger Duck Breast with Bok Choy, Carrot, Jasmine Rice and Thai Green Curry. At the risk of stirring up the Chronic Complainers (I actually love them), it was sublime. Another diner had the Rack of Domestic Lamb, an amazing Pea Polenta and delightful Cippolinis scattered about. It melted in one's mouth. I also included a shot of the Creme Brulee every so slightly redolent of coconut. You never quite know what to expect at Back Porch Cafe.

If the weather is not too hot, I suggest you sit in the (actual) back porch area…maybe even on the elevated “loft” if you're lucky enough to get a table there. The view of the neighboring roofs (and even a church steeple) is engaging and decidedly Parisian. One of my favorite Foodies, former New York Times restaurant critic Ruth Reichl, wrote, “When restaurants hold up their end of the bargain, they give us the illusion of being surrounded by servants intent on ensuring our happiness, and offering extraordinary food.” Treat yourself to Sunday Brunch at Back Porch Cafe, replete with their ridiculously good blueberry scones and eggs Benedict. You will understand what Ruth was writing about.

I hope against hope that the new owners will treat this Rehoboth icon with the same love and attention that founder Victor Pisapia, the late Chef Medisch, original cook Siri Svasti, business partners Keith Fitzgerald and Marylyn Spitz and the other partners over the years lavished on it. It bodes well that much of the remaining staff at Back Porch Cafe are working hard to “hold up their end of the bargain.”

Back Porch Cafe is at 59 Rehoboth Avenue, on the north side, in the middle of the ocean block. Reservations are a must (302) 227-3674. They are also one of the few fine-dining joints to be open for lunch. They are closed off-season, but that might change with the new owners. Click here to see a sample menu. (L., D., Bar) Price Range: Expensive+.

Off-season Specials & Hours