Pig & Publican

I’m a longtime fan of the Frampton’s culinary ventures, from the sadly gone Pig + Fish on Rehoboth Avenue to one of my favorite happy places, the Pickled Pig Pub on The Highway just south of Midway. P3 is now part of history. I visited that place so much that I stopped posting every meal because I didn’t want anyone to think that I was on their payroll. I still get emails and comments about Chef Ian Mangin’s creations that included exceptionally good burgers, shredded pork and, of course, pickles. Lots of them. Sadly, the Pickled Pig Pub fell prey to the inequity and insanity our restaurant community endured in the early 2020s.

But Doug and Lisa are nothing if not resilient. Shortly after they escaped downtown Rehoboth, they took over the old Woodings Beach Deli at 516 E. Savannah Road on the Lewes beach side of the canal drawbridge. Doug marshaled his former times at Wilmington’s Iron Hill Brewery by creating a one-of-a-kind experience with definite hints of Belgian cuisine not only at the bar, but also on the menu. Times and tastes change, of course, and wise proprietors know how to go with the flow. The menu at Pig and Publican reflects that wisdom by paying homage to the sadly gone Pickled Pig Pub with the Publican Pretzels (served with a bracing beer mustard and a smooth Belgian ale cheese sauce) and the BBQ Pork Sandwich decorated (of course) with … you guessed it: sweet pickles. The Asian Bistro Salad is one of the best around with spicy ginger vinaigrette and chopped peanuts (a quiet nod to Vietnamese flavors).

When they first opened in Lewes, I remember the predictable confusion over the name of the restaurant. Lisa is nothing if not creative, and she insisted on staying with the porcine theme. What do you call a place that serves some good pork dishes, and sports a comfortable, pubby feel? Drawing on their European influences, they discovered that a publican is someone who owns a pub. Duh … it worked! Hence the name.

The play on the Belgian theme is now mostly at the bar at Pig & Publican, evidenced by the Duvel Triple Hop Citra brew (a Belgian blonde IPA at 9.5 ABV, so bring a driver). The food menu has quietly evolved to local tastes and offers a generous selection of goodies, including a fresh fish board, cleverly crafted salads and a particularly good bratwurst plate with warm potato salad, sauerkraut, Cabot cheddar and that wake-you-up beer mustard. Their signature Thai Drunken Noodles evoke fond memories of the two original Pigs and bring a bright Asian palate to the table. I’m a pushover for Nashville Hot Chicken sandwiches, and the Framptons top ‘em with their signature bread & butter pickles.

The Pig & Publican is open for lunch and dinner year round, Tuesday through Saturday, Noon to 9 p.m. They are closed on Sunday & Monday. These people are obsessed with hospitality, and they ensure a pleasant experience by seating guests no later than 45 minutes prior to closing. Note that menus change like the tides. So some of these photographed goodies may or may not be on the menu.

The Pig & Publican is located in the Beacon Motel at 514 E. Savannah Road, between the drawbridge and Lewes Beach. Call to check their hours at 302-313-4487. Check out their website at www.PigandPublican.com.