Dos Locos Fajita and Stonegrill

Now in their fourth incarnation on Rehoboth Avenue in the space formerly occupied by the long-gone Abizak's furniture store, Dos Locos continues to draw crowds, often enjoying a 2-hour wait in the high season. Though I return again and again, ready to criticize, Darryl and Joe's food has so far remained delicious, consistent and predictable. That's high praise in these days where every culinary dollar counts. Fine dining? Certainly not. Value for your dollar every time? Yes! Well, Darryl Ciarlante and Joe Zuber have moved on, but the new owners are very wise: They have changed nothing! Why mess with success. So you will see your favorite servers, bartenders and managers at Dos Locos, and they will be doing the same good job they always did.

I like Tex-Mex, so I do the chicken burrito with the black beans (choose between that and refried), rice and guacamole. The chicken is well-seasoned and expertly shredded. That means no bone or gristle (at least not yet…). They offer two kinds of toppings, one green and one red. Neither is really that spicy, but they will happily provide you with “Melt Your Face” sauce (which Joe continues to deny is the notorious Dave's Insanity Sauce right out of the bottle). GET IT ON THE SIDE! For the uninitiated (or those who still actually have taste buds), it is VERY hot. Habaneros, salt and vinegar pureed. Period. The best way to NOT melt-your-face is to just dip the tip end of your fork into the mean-looking concoction and just touch it to the food.

If you're looking for something (a little) lighter, try the deconstructed tacos. This ode to DIY Mexican can be ordered with any of the fillings, and it comes with a pile of shredded cheese, lettuce and cool pico. I like the hard tacos and they are BIG. So enjoy. A Big-Girl margarita will help you wash it down.

The “Muchos Nachos” are crunchy and plentiful, topped with a creamy queso and fresh, crispy jalapeno peppers. They can also be ordered with meat toppings. The queso app is cheddary and creamy, and the salsa is chunky and mildly spiced (not the best in town, but good). Do try the “Loco Beans”: Crispy green beans, quickly deep fried with a nice, crunchy batter. Order 'em “for the table.” The table will love you.

One of their specialties is seafood (especially lobster) with a Mexican bent. My nibbling companion varies between the shrimp and crab enchilada and the crab enchilada (Darryl's Favorite). Both are delicious. Just the other night I had the lobster burrito. There must have been about a half pound of lobster in there. It was delicious. Pretty much any seafood combination works with Mexican, so give the seafood dishes a try. Last night, a friend ordered the pork carnitas burrito. Rather than the more traditional chunks of pork, their pork filling is shredded and simmered with a deeply aromatic combination of spices, with a heavy leaning toward black pepper. This one has the potential to pull me away from my trusted standby, the chicken burrito with black beans, rice and a side of guac.

For those not into the Tex-Mex thing, try the StoneGrill dishes. They bring out a very hot stone (700 degrees! They will not serve it to kids — at least not to the ones who are behaving themselves) accompanied by whatever protein you wish — fish, chicken, beef. You have the fun of cooking it yourself. A plate of sides accompanies. Between this and their sizzling fajitas, the restaurant smells great. If you're not hungry when you arrive, you will be by the time you sit down.

Experience suggests staying with the Tex-Mex, the seafood Tex-Mex and the Stonegrill specialties. My favorite dining companion is an expert on Chicken Mole. He has ordered this complex recipe several times, and reports that the Mole sauce has no real depth of flavor. It's not bad, mind you, but there are other local places that do better with “authentic” dishes like this. Dos Locos has so many things to offer, why not stick with what they do best — like the Three Amigos (your choice of fillings in 3 big enchiladas). The cheese is delicious and I suggest the black beans.

Last (and definitely not least, on so many levels) are the margaritas. They have 3 sizes, both frozen and not frozen. The “Grande” (12 oz.), the “Big Girl” (25 oz. –good night, ladies and gentlemen) and the “Pitcher” (60 oz. –ambulances are standing by). The flavors range from the standard lime to apple, kiwi, cilantro, S&M (?), and lots more. Get ready to be removed by a team of professionals if you finish the “Big Girl.” The full bar is staffed with friendly bartenders, all of whom, I believe, are trained in basic resuscitation techniques. I really like eating at the bar. Gino is a delight and will tell you everything about sports. If you ask….

Don't miss Dos Locos at for an upbeat party atmosphere and good food. They're open year-round at 208 Rehoboth Avenue across from the fire dept. Their phone number is 302-227-3353. Click here for a selection of various menus at Dos Locos. (L., D., Bar) Price Range: Moderate +.

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