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Modern Mixture Too

/ Updated on October 8, 2015
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Virtually every lunch or dinner I have had at Modern Mixture in downtown Rehoboth Beach has been good. Regulars at RehobothFoodie.com know I love Leo Cabrera’s tamales, and I’m a pushover for that Modern Mixture House Chopped Salad with the crunchy nopalitos and fresh, clean lime juice dressing. And, though Leo’s menu offers lots of good options for those of the vegetarian persuasion, what self-respecting carnivore could pass up a burrito that includes fried Vienna Sausages?

So imagine if you will, another Modern Mixture, say, for example, Modern Mixture Too, in the tiny burg of Milton? You don’t have to imagine it. It’s there. I was spurred into action by none other than our very own beer guru and all-around nice guy Sam Calagione. Though his email was very polite, it pretty much boiled down to, “What’s wrong with you that you haven’t been there yet!?

So, with the image of a frosty DFH Sixty-One dancing in my head, I motored Miltonward. And I’m glad I did (thanks, Sam). The place was about 80% full – on a weeknight, yet. It was lively and spirited with everything from families with kids, to teens on a date, to couples of all ages; some happily noshing at the holy-grail deuces in the front window. The Milton space is laid out differently and seats more people than Rehoboth Avenue. Seating includes wide, roomy booths and a beautiful bar that substantially increases the capacity of the restaurant.

The menu is the same as the Rehoboth installation and all of the regular goodies are there. I started with my ModMixToo House Chopped Salad and it was as sparkling as ever. It is a natural law of the universe that all the ingredients of a proper chopped salad must be as close to the same size as possible. That critical goal is achieved at Modern Mixture Too. Another must-get is the simple and delicious Sopa de Tortilla. This tomato-based chicken soup, topped French-onion-style with creamy cheddar is savory and satisfying. It was recommended to me a couple of years ago by none other than the late über-restaurateur Matt Haley, who slipped into the original Rehoboth ModMix undetected (even by Leo) and loved the stuff. So needless to say it comes highly recommended.

The Modern Mixture Nachos are a relatively recent add to the Rehoboth menu, and I experienced them for the first time during our Milton visits. Now this is where I get to tell you about the big difference between Modern Mixture and other Mexican restaurants. Instead of the mild, ubiquitous Mexican crumbly cheese (like Cotija – queso anejedo), Leo Cabrera uses a bright and salty feta, the signature cheese of Greek cuisine. My first reaction was abject horror (OK, sometimes I overreact). When I think of feta, I think of Greek salads, gyros, spanakopita, tzatziki, etc. I love the stuff, but does it have a place in Mexican dishes? Well, Modern Mixture and Modern Mixture Too tout themselves as, well … a modern mixture of Mexican, Middle Eastern and California style Latino food, so why not? And much to my surprise, the feta is a slam dunk. The addition of feta to many of the Mexican dishes at Modern Mixture Too adds a bright, acidic saltiness that goes perfectly with the Mexican ingredients, which, in the case of the nachos, includes the unexpected addition of steak, chimichurri and (get ready) … chicken mole! These ain’t yo’ mamacita’s nachos, kids. Give ‘em a try.

Same thing applies to the Flautas appetizer. If you had Leo’s flautas in the early days of the Rehoboth facility, you need to try them again. Leo admits that the dish has been a work in progress, and he has hit the nail on the head. Think taquitos on steroids. The lightly fried tortillas are puffy and crunchy (not unlike a wonton wrapper), and envelop white-meat chicken. They are topped with guac, sour cream, pico and, of course, that bracing feta. These are another must-get. BTW, order them to share. They’re big.

Mexican Tortas (panini, but with a Spanish accent) are one of the specialties, and I always get the Torta Cubana (Cuban press). Ham, white cheddar, yellow mustard, roast pork and dill pickles play very well together between a couple of slices of grilled ciabatta-style bread. One burrito I had not tried was the Argentinean Burrito. Similar to the Burrito Moderno (a carnivore’s dream-come-true), this stick-to-your-ribs wrap contains steak, pulled pork, bacon (of course), bell peppers (when we were there they were the orange variety and were crunchy and delicious), cheddar and chimichurri (a green sauce consisting of finely-chopped parsley, minced garlic, olive oil, oregano, and white or red wine vinegar). Like meat? Get this one. It is moist, perfectly sized and firmly packed. (Not unlike the Foodie, truth be told….)

The Modern Mixture Quesadilla is an old standby and is always ordered by my Favorite Foodie. The grilled chicken add-on is recommended, rounding out the bacon, potato and cheddar. As with most dishes there, guac and sour cream accompany.

Leo and his delightful business partner Stephanie Boright have engaged none other than pastry chef extraordinaire Dru Tevis to contribute to the dessert department. Some of you might remember the affable Dru from behind the bar at Blue on Rehoboth Avenue (formerly Taste, and now Cilantro). He attended culinary school in New York for a time, honing his skills at the famous Momofuku Milk Bar in Brooklyn. He is back, and has since graced the kitchens of Shorebreak Lodge and Blue Moon.

The Tres Leches Cake (with a mysterious hint of coconut!), the White & Dark Chocolate Mousse Cake (for the chocolate lover in your life) and the brunchtime Baked Coconut French Toast (gadzooks!) are all Dru’s handiwork. And like everything that guy creates, they are delicious.

Modern Mixture Too is in downtown Milton at 102 Federal St. on the corner with Bank St. Call to check off-season hours at 302-664-1228. They serve brunch and lunch until 3 p.m. and then dinner. The bar is fun. Take a look at the menu here.

There is outdoor seating, surrounded by what comes off as a soothing New-England-style ambiance. Leo and Stephanie have fallen in love with the little town, and he describes it best: “Think of the charm of Rehoboth Beach in the off-season. That’s Milton year-round.”

I could get used to that. Follow them on Facebook.

The Rehoboth Foodie

About the Author

"My goal is to promote Rehoboth Beach dining while remaining honest and impartial. I don’t gush unless a place deserves it, and I don’t pull punches, either. With so many good places to eat around here, it just doesn’t make sense to waste the calories — or the money — on anything less." View all articles written by The Rehoboth Foodie

Add Your Comment
  1. Jim Goldstein says:

    We ventured over to Milton today to go to the new wine bar. We decided that in the afternoon we really didn’t want wine and flatbread pizza. So, we went to Modern Mixture Ii knowing nothing about it or the one in Rehobeth. We had the mahi salad and the middle eastern salad. Both were delicious. I have spent more in other places in the area and the quality was far superior here. We were more than pleasantly surprised. We did end up sharing a red sangria which was really good. The best I have had is at Agave in Lewes but this one was superior to most others I have had. This place exceeded our expectations and we will definitely return. Bravo Leo.

  2. Leslie says:

    With all the good comments from the Foodie and other sources – we were really looking forward to Modern Mixture Too. We usually try lunch at a new (for us) restaurant first. I will say the staff were very friendly, but the food was just “so-so”. I had the gyro with fries (that our waitress said they had the best fries”. The fries were limp, as if they had sat around and were microwaved to heat them up. The gyro had lots of grilled onion – but only 2 very thin sliced of gyro meat – which I couldn’t even taste, and the tzatziki had a bit of sweetness to it that just seemed off (Semra’s has the best gyros by far). My husband had the Cuban, which he said was not great (he loves the one at The Backyard). So to us it was just below average, and we won’t be returning as there are too many really good restaurants in the area. Sorry Modern Mixture Too – we were not impressed.

  3. Cathy says:

    Went last Sunday for dinner. The Foodie was spot on about the food. We ordered the Argentina burrito and chicken torta. Both delicious. Chips were thin and crisp and not greasy. Went perfectly with the trio of salsas. I lived in southern Cal for 8 years and am spoiled when it comes to Mexican or Tex/Mex cuisine. This place was a breath of fresh air from all the other pretend Mexican restaurants. Amy and Mike could not have been nicer. Attended to our every need. Amy forced my husband to try the tres leches cake. He was very happy! We will definitely be regulars from now on.

  4. kathy davison says:

    We had a delightful dinner there this past week and everyone at the table had a great meal! What a welcome addition to Milton. Definitely will be back.

  5. MJ Ostinato says:

    So glad to have Leo here in Milton, especially downtown where many of us can walk to the restaurant. I love all of the salads, but especially the middle eastern chop that comes with fresh falafel balls, and his signature kale salad. My husband and I have shared burritos, the taco combo platter, and the torta cubano, all were delicious. Unfortunately we are always too full for dessert, but I have tried the fried rice cream and it’s winner, sweet and crunchy with caramel and chocolate sauces, and big enough to share with several people. Go in for the yum, as Leo says!

  6. Teddy says:

    This is a much needed addition to the dining options in Mil ton. The place is pleasant, nice bar with excellent beer selection. My lunch of fish and shrimp tacos was excellent. This is a “keeper. I will be back. Often.

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